Ok, as I walk through my neighborhood I keep seeing men wearing suits, jackets and in particular trousers and jeans, which are way too tight. Better known as meggings = men’s pants fitting so tightly they resemble leggings hence meggings.
When designer Thom Browne #thombrowne presented his little slim suits about a dozen years ago, he helped to accelerate the gradual slimming of the fashionable men’s silhouette which had been happening since the late 90’s. While working at Prada, I remember trying to push slimmer lined, flat front panted suit’s and fitted shirts on American department stores around 1999/2000 and being met with constant resistance. These suits and shirts today would seem conservative and not at all extreme or tight fitting. General fashion for men has now fully embraced a leaner line. Even such mass brands such as Banana Republic #bananarepublic now present a slim cut. The general consumer eye has finally adjusted to less volume and men under 30 have pretty much spent their adult years wearing skinny jeans, shorter jackets and fitted shirts.
As a trend becomes mainstream, one often witnesses abuses of that trend. Mr. Kenneth (Jackie O’ and Marilyn’s hairdresser) never intended their bouffant to be turned into the poorly executed, plastered, helmet haired do’s copied by many. Nor did Mary Quant expect to see her mini skirts on legs which would be best covered up. Not every trend is for everyone. I am pretty sure Thom Browne would wince to see his little suits worn by a 6’4 ft. muscle guy that looked as though his seams were about to burst. Actually, he might like that….but you get my point.
Ok, so what is toooo tight?
1) We should not be able to tell your religion.
2) We should not be able to see the full outline of your keys, wallet, etc. on your pants.
3) Fabric should not be pulling or stretching across your chest, thighs or calves.
4) It is acceptable for jeans to hug your butt. However, a dress pant or chino should not “cup” or hug across your backside.
5) Speaking of jeans, it should not look as though you will need an apple peeler to get out of them.
6) We should not fear the loss of any eye due to the sling shot effect from a button popping off of your fly, shirt or jacket.
7) We should not see how much gym time you put in through your pants or blazer.
So what constitutes a modern fit versus being a too tight fit?
1) Your pants should not reveal the crack of your butt when you bend over or sit down.
2) Speaking of which, you should be able to comfortably sit down.
3) Your shirt or jacket should button up with little tension and no “pulling”.
4) You should be able to easily slip two fingers into your waist band once your pants or jeans are fastened.
5) When standing, you should be able to grab an inch or two of material from your pant or jean leg, particularly around your thighs and calves.
6) Watch proportions. A slim guy can often wear a slim cut silhouette. However, if you are over 6ft, a cropped pant or super short jacket may make you look like you borrowed your kid brother’s school uniform.
7) With the exception of jeans and underwear, most clothing should “graze” your body, rather than hug your body.
Let’s keep in slim and modern. Hell, I’m not ready to go back to the oversized clothing of the 90’s. It’s almost comical to watch the male characters in reruns of Friends and Sex and the City. Chandler, Ross and Big look almost absurd by today’s fashion standard wearing their big shoulders, boxy jackets and droopy pants. Look how awful number 44.5 looks in his hold over 90’s suits….However, your clothes should not look as though you sprayed them on with a can of Rust-Oleum #rustoleum.